Michael Tracy
Michael Tracy
  • Видео 92
  • Просмотров 3 614 698
Homework Assignment for Beidleman's Choice
A homework assignment looking at statements made by Neal Beidleman in a 2020 interview regarding the 1996 Mount Everest disaster. The focus is on three sections:
1. Beidlemans' decision to lead the group off the route.
2. Boukreev's initial climb above South Col as part of the rescue attempts.
3. The oxygen bottle situation on South Summit.
Fair Use:
Beidleman Interview: ruclips.net/video/jL9UHk1zTeY/видео.html
Krakauer presentation: ruclips.net/video/q5LtdIwZF50/видео.html
Join this channel to get access to perks:
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Просмотров: 6 150

Видео

Everest 1996: Charlotte Fox's account and the 1PM turn-around time
Просмотров 16 тыс.Месяц назад
Starts to take a look at the rope fixing on May 10, 1996. Discusses Montenegrin attempt on May 9, 1996, Charlotte Fox's account of May 10, 1996 and Jon Krakauer changing the turn-around time to 2PM when it was 1PM for the Adventure Consultant's team. www.npr.org/2014/11/11/363120048/behind-the-famous-story-a-difficult-truth publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12199702700/A-Time-To-Live...
Another Myth Busted
Просмотров 5 тыс.Месяц назад
The myth that Odell was pointing to a location well below the First Step when asked to show where he law saw Mallory and Irvine was busted by a commentator in another channel. You can see original comment here: ruclips.net/video/_alNnOQkbHE/видео.html Messner's Book: archive.org/details/everestexpeditio0000mess/page/32/mode/2up Anker Presentation: ruclips.net/video/PAVTEC5P3LU/видео.html Funny ...
The Last Letters of George Mallory
Просмотров 7 тыс.Месяц назад
A look at the last letters sent to and from George Mallory in his 1924 expedition to Mount Everest. Join this channel to get access to perks: ruclips.net/channel/UCZzC6L24Q6mQ9jla_yyN17Ajoin Fair Use: magdalene.maxarchiveservices.co.uk/index.php thegeorgemalloryfoundation.org/thumbnail_img_5154
Sheer Will vs Thin Air: Analysis of Jon Krakauer and Yasuko Namba's locations after 3:30PM
Просмотров 21 тыс.2 месяца назад
Compares Michael Groom's account in Sheer Will with Jon Krakauer's account in Into Thin Air of the time period between 3:30PM and 7:30PM on May 10, 1996. Significant differences exist between Groom and Krakauer's account, and Krakauer has changed his story over the years. It appears Groom's version is accurate with Krakauer having invented his version to push Yasuko further up the mountain so t...
Analysis of Scott Fischer's photo from South Summit
Просмотров 124 тыс.2 месяца назад
Takes a look at a photo taken by Scott Fischer to determine what happened on the upper part of Mount Everest on May 10, 1996. Looks at various accounts from Jon Krakauer and determines they do not match up with photographs taken that day. Fair Use: web.archive.org/web/20080720130058/outside.away.com/peaks/features/krak2.html medium.com/galleys/a-postscript-to-into-thin-air-e238d464a256 ruclips....
Analysis of Into Thin Air Photo on Page 11
Просмотров 47 тыс.3 месяца назад
Analysis of photo from Into Thin Air, Illustrated Edition, Page 11. Takes a look at Jon Krakauer's manipulation of facts to support his narrative of the 1996 Mount Everest Disaster. Part of a series of videos that examines that 1996 Mount Everest Disaster. This video looks at a photograph taken by Neal Beidleman along the summit ridge to see that the account of the Summit Ridge decent of the Mo...
Everest 1996: Sandy Pittman and the Yellow Brick Road #misogyny
Просмотров 53 тыс.3 месяца назад
A look at the popular accounts of the Everest 1996 disaster. Looks at the "Big Secret" and evaluates Jon Krakauer's climb, comparing it to that of Sandy Pitman's. Notes: Krakauer states the bottles he was carrying weighed 6.6 lbs and lasted between 5-6 hours. This is only consistent with 3 liter bottles. A 4 liter bottle weighs over 8 lbs and last over 8 hours. At no point did any bottle Krakau...
Does Size Matter?
Просмотров 12 тыс.3 месяца назад
A look at the size of three ice axes with a comparison to the heights of their owners to come to the conclusion that taller people use longer ice axes. Then I compare a known ice axe of Andrew Irvine with the "mystery" ice axe found on Everest in 1933 with Irvine's known ice axe being significantly bigger in both length and girth. Reevaluates the evidence around the Wilisch ice axe and it is mo...
Response Part 3: Stealing from the Living
Просмотров 113 тыс.4 месяца назад
A review of the various false statements made by Thom Pollard that relate to the Mallory and Irvine's climb to demonstrate that he is not a reliable source to convey "information" from anonymous sources. Reviews his stepping over dying climbers on his way to the summit, lifting a story from Dave Hahn, taking photographs of George Mallory's face, and taking credit for things he did not do. web.a...
Response Part 2: How the 2019 Team Deceived the Sherpas
Просмотров 12 тыс.4 месяца назад
A look at the 2019 National Geographic team on Mount Everest and how they deceived the Sherpas about their plans. Looks at the various excuses offered such as it was necessary to deceived the Sherpas and that the Sherpas insisted on going to the summit neither of which hold up when the facts are examined. Responding to video: ruclips.net/video/SDbRRU1YMLw/видео.html en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Rashom...
Response to claims that Irvine's body was removed from Mount Everest - Part 1
Просмотров 26 тыс.5 месяцев назад
A discussion of a recent interview with Jamie McGuinness where he states the Chinese told him the body of Andrew Irvine was removed from Mount Everest prior to 2008. Discusses how a different version was told to Mark Synnott in The Third Pole and outlines the remaining two parts of this video series. www.amazon.com/Third-Pole-Mystery-Obsession-Everest/dp/B08DKGTQCH/ @EverestMystery ruclips.net/...
Death in the Couloir
Просмотров 13 тыс.5 месяцев назад
Account of the climb and fall of Tomas Olson in 2006. en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Tomas_Olsson www.skimag.com/gear/swedish-skier-dies-during-everest-ski-descent/ www.travelexplorations.com/tomas-olsson-found-dead-skiing-down-from-the-north-side-of-mount-everest-ended-in-tradegy.326749-18558.html en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Tormod_Granheim www.tranquilkilimanjaro.com/tomas-olssons-tragic-fall-while-attempti...
Analysis of the Chinese 1960 Mount Everest Expedition
Просмотров 89 тыс.5 месяцев назад
Review of the Chinese Mount Everest Expedition. Chinese newspapers confirm that the cooking equipment was blown out of the Chinese high camp leaving the summit party with no way to melt water in their high camp. This, coupled with the numerous inconsistencies in the route description, the lack of oxygen, the lack of any summit photos, and alleged summit rocks that are a lighter color consistenc...
Xu Jing's Movements in May, 1960
Просмотров 18 тыс.6 месяцев назад
Xu Jing was a climber on the 1960 Chinese expedition to Mount Everest. This video looks at some of the problems with the various accounts provided regarding the 1960 expedition. In particular, this video looks at Xu Jing's account that he saw a body while defending from the First Step, but many items of his story do not match up with other accounts. Fair Use: Interview of Xu Jing is found in De...
Everest vs Doctors: Which is more likely to kill you?
Просмотров 3,8 тыс.7 месяцев назад
Everest vs Doctors: Which is more likely to kill you?
The Real Fake Dead George Mallory
Просмотров 7 тыс.7 месяцев назад
The Real Fake Dead George Mallory
Merton College - Andrew Irvine Project
Просмотров 2,4 тыс.7 месяцев назад
Merton College - Andrew Irvine Project
The Holzel Slot and Other Locations
Просмотров 13 тыс.8 месяцев назад
The Holzel Slot and Other Locations
The Fall of Chaitanya
Просмотров 14 тыс.8 месяцев назад
The Fall of Chaitanya
Jake's War Map Revealed
Просмотров 4,8 тыс.8 месяцев назад
Jake's War Map Revealed
Chinese Deny Conrad Anker Entry to North Side of Everest
Просмотров 10 тыс.9 месяцев назад
Chinese Deny Conrad Anker Entry to North Side of Everest
When Does It Count?
Просмотров 5 тыс.11 месяцев назад
When Does It Count?
Thom Solves a Mystery
Просмотров 11 тыс.11 месяцев назад
Thom Solves a Mystery
George Mallory's statements about possible routes up Mount Everest
Просмотров 52 тыс.Год назад
George Mallory's statements about possible routes up Mount Everest
Visit to the Archives
Просмотров 4,6 тыс.Год назад
Visit to the Archives
Great Climbs: Hornbein and Unsoeld, 1963
Просмотров 21 тыс.Год назад
Great Climbs: Hornbein and Unsoeld, 1963
Everything Wrong with Veritasium's Quantum Computer Video
Просмотров 15 тыс.Год назад
Everything Wrong with Veritasium's Quantum Computer Video
The End of the Zodiac Mystery
Просмотров 10 тыс.Год назад
The End of the Zodiac Mystery
How Long Is Twenty Minutes?
Просмотров 11 тыс.Год назад
How Long Is Twenty Minutes?

Комментарии

  • @MorganaRaven29
    @MorganaRaven29 10 часов назад

    She’s a narcissist

  • @carolrawsthorne7655
    @carolrawsthorne7655 23 часа назад

    You seem to have a strong hatred for Krakauer. Your commentary therefore ruined my opinion of the video. Next time please refrain from being so biased on the subject.

  • @peek-a-moose2491
    @peek-a-moose2491 День назад

    Wrong -- the delay was caused by Sandy Hill Pittman.... She and her Sherpa, Lopsang, did not fix ropes as they were supposed to.... This caused a two hour delay..... She needed to be on top to broadcast to the world and that seemed to be more important than fixing ropes!!! More important than the safety of the other climbers.... To hell with the other climbers. A two delay for the other climbers was a dangerous move on Pittman's part. It is too dangerous to start out two hours late for the summit -- One needs to get back before nightfall and all those people had summit fever, let alone the desire of the team leaders for all that free publicity broadcast around the world. ..... Hall and Fischer were only interested in publicity brought to you by Outside and by NBC..... Hall and Fischer were ultimately responsible for the safety of all the climbers, but they broke all their rules. They were responsible for everyone's behavior, and yet not fixing ropes allowed Pittman to be in the lead by two hours. And those behind her were catching up as she was not in the greatest of shape. I think you put too much into one photo and I think your analysis is completely wrong and a bit of a fantasy.... You are also much too critical of Krakauer. I have reread his book and it seems very honest unlike the book by Boukreev, who was a hero. Krakauer's account is much more believable. The death zone robs you not only of Oxygen and energy but of logical thinking. Combined with the cold and bad weather that occurred there is little doubt that no one was in good shape after reaching the summit. Further, the going up the mountain in the death zone is quite tough. You take a step. You rest. You take another step. You rest. Even with O2. May all those who lost their lives RIP.

  • @tinadenning3186
    @tinadenning3186 День назад

    I think you are mistaken... remember they are not the ONLY people there... and they had to wait to fix ropes.

  • @pawlitopawbur417
    @pawlitopawbur417 День назад

    Think about it: If Irvine was ever found, why wouldn't the Chinese announce it publicly? Or it was "so important to not say anything about it?

  • @rogjackson
    @rogjackson 2 дня назад

    Fascinating. Well done. I will comment with a little more detail after watching again and letting my thoughts incubate. But my initial impression is that this is excellent research and commentary. It is at least highly relevant information relating to this mystery. Mr. Tracy's passion on this case is inspiring. In a way, it makes me come alive, and wake up, for just a moment, to try and see what we can see- to try and deduce what can be known about Mallory's story from what we have.

  • @AbhinavRudra-s8t
    @AbhinavRudra-s8t 2 дня назад

    Respect Mother nature, Dont go with the mindset to Conquer your Small Ego. Prepare your body and mind meditating and controlling Breath by various Yoga Asanas. Sherpas and porter's risk there life's, listen to them. Har Har Mahadev Bharat Mata ki jai. Be Safe guy's.

  • @phaethon3124
    @phaethon3124 3 дня назад

    is the part of michael tracy played by harry shearer from the simpsons

  • @jericonway8292
    @jericonway8292 4 дня назад

  • @Kroggnagch
    @Kroggnagch 5 дней назад

    I feel like Krakauer is a bit of a tool. When i say "a bit" i mean hes entirely a tool bag.

  • @NoPitBullLeftBehind
    @NoPitBullLeftBehind 5 дней назад

    This pains me to say, but I don't think JK was saying he went from the Hillary Step to the summit in 12 minutes. I think what he was saying, using way too many random words and explanations, was that he switched to his second O2 bottle on the Balcony, and in a 7 hour time period he would have to go from the Balcony, to the summit, but to the South Summit to get his 3rd bottle. And he was apparently concerned at some point at or near the summit he would have to get to the South Summit in less than 45 minutes, which I'm guessing is not possible. I could be wrong though...I did read that paragraph like 10 times trying to understand it. Lol

    • @michaeltracy2356
      @michaeltracy2356 5 дней назад

      He said he was below the Hillary Step "after 1PM." "But now it was already after 1:00, and I was beginning to have serious doubts."Krakauer, Jon. Into Thin Air (p. 188). And he is on the summit at 1:12PM .."FOURTEEN SUMMIT 1:12 P.M., MAY 10, 1996 • 29,028 FEET" Krakauer, Jon. Into Thin Air (p. 193). I realize you are giving him the "benefit of the doubt." But he routinely modifies times and locations to benefit himself and make Boukreev look worse. Here, is is claiming it took Boukreev too long to scale the Hillary Step which slowed people down. "But it was a slow process, and as he painstakingly ascended toward the crest of the Step, I nervously studied my watch and wondered whether I might run out of oxygen." Krakauer, Jon. Into Thin Air (p. 188). Other people report Boukreev climbing it very quickly and given the times of the first groups to reach the summit, it appears the accounts of Boukreev climbing quickly were all correct and the single account of him being slow (Krakauer's) is contradicted by Krakauer's own timeframe.

    • @NoPitBullLeftBehind
      @NoPitBullLeftBehind 5 дней назад

      @@michaeltracy2356 Thank you for taking away the pain of having to give him the benefit of the doubt. I can't stand what he did and has done, and continues to do, especially the money he has made off of it, and making others who were up there the villain. I appreciate people who tell the truth, despite how unpopular it might be to some, so I definitely appreciate your videos. I found them last night and binge watched a few already about what happened with my notes app open trying to make a timeline to understand everyone's actions a little more. Do you think he has always had it out for Boukreev because he beat him to the top by a few minutes, or because he was on the Mountain Madness team, or just a combo of things? I had to laugh when I saw the quote of his saying how people's stories change over time to make them more favorable to themselves and how it's all about ego and self importance. I mean the definition of self-projection right there. I had to rewind the quote just to make sure I didn't mishear who had said it because I thought someone had said it about him and I missed the name.

  • @gigisielaff
    @gigisielaff 6 дней назад

    While the accounts of the journey have validity as misogynistic, sandy’s insensitivity post everest is where she lost support.

  • @Reganpwnsrc
    @Reganpwnsrc 6 дней назад

    reading your replies to the comments on this video, you seem pretty condescending for someone running a channel with discussion/debate being a key component.

  • @randalrobinson3424
    @randalrobinson3424 6 дней назад

    I may be wrong here, but the statement that if the oxygen flow rate was set to maximum, the user would have heard the excessive flow seems to ignore possible wind noise at the time. However, even if this were the case, there appears to be other reasons to question this story element.

  • @willrobinson100
    @willrobinson100 6 дней назад

    South Summit of?

  • @tscully1504
    @tscully1504 6 дней назад

    Very well done. I have pondered this event much over the last few years and was confused by differing accounts. I am not sure it is all completely untangled, but this has I believe improved the overall accuracy of the account.

  • @michaelsmiley15
    @michaelsmiley15 7 дней назад

    So in one of the documentaries I watched Several problems To many people trying to summit at the same time The window for summiting and getting down was closing There is an account of one person from adventure consultants team was on the summit waiting while the fixed the ropes on the traverse to the Hilary step Mind you This is 1996 there is no social media and it's the first climbing season with over 100 climbers at base camp at the same time Anyone who watched the movie has some of the information The storm that trapped everyone at camp 4 came up from the valley very unusual Yes and lop sing was dragging sandy up when he was supposed to monitoring the amount of oxygen bottles above camp 4 so Rob was trapped at the south summit with no O2 because lop sing didn't do his job

    • @michaeltracy2356
      @michaeltracy2356 6 дней назад

      Funny. Rob Hall was out of oxygen because of Lopsang? Lopsang didn't work for him. Lopsang wasn't on his team. Lopsang had nothing to do with. him. Rather than believing what people tell you, why don't you think for yourself? How many people were trying to summit at the same time? Why was that "too many?" As I go into in the video, a solid portion of them were sherpas and guides. They didn't slow anyone down. Rob Hall was out of oxygen because he refused to let Doug Hansen turn around and head back to camp like Hansen wanted to do.

  • @missinglinq
    @missinglinq 7 дней назад

    Krakauer's explanation of what happened in his lecture (on youtube) is totally counter to the accounts by Neil Bidelman in the PBS documentary.

  • @rogjackson
    @rogjackson 7 дней назад

    Interesting. Correcting disinformation is a thankless job, but someone has to do it. This is good work.

  • @Landwy1
    @Landwy1 7 дней назад

    Pollard seems like he is trying to make money off the Mallory and Irvine story. He is getting older and probably doesn't have a lot of money to make for a comfortable retirement and has to do story telling to make some money.

  • @zztops489Y
    @zztops489Y 8 дней назад

    Well, it's really easy to condescendingly, in the LIGHT of day, to have opinions (when the wind is not gusting in the 70s, you are cold etc). And, just btw, it is rare, almost unheard of to find statues raised in honor of a critic.

  • @eucliduschaumeau8813
    @eucliduschaumeau8813 11 дней назад

    Why am I not the least bit surprised. A bust of Chairman Mao my ass.

  • @reid7659
    @reid7659 12 дней назад

    What a crock. Krakauer was there and he questioned everybody who was there. His is the most comprehensive account. Everybody who had something to say was included. He gave full disclosure.

    • @michaeltracy2356
      @michaeltracy2356 11 дней назад

      No, he didn't. As I go over in these videos, he left out any account that didn't agree with his and fooled people like you into believing he provided "full disclosure." “One of the saddest lessons of history is this: If we’ve been bamboozled long enough, we tend to reject any evidence of the bamboozle. We’re no longer interested in finding out the truth. The bamboozle has captured us. It’s simply too painful to acknowledge, even to ourselves, that we’ve been taken. Once you give a charlatan power over you, you almost never get it back.” ― Carl Sagan, The Demon-Haunted World: Science as a Candle in the Dark

  • @Suejd1001
    @Suejd1001 12 дней назад

    Poor Yasuko! 😭😭😭😭😭

  • @MashaRistova
    @MashaRistova 13 дней назад

    I’m so glad you are representing the hard facts in these videos. It’s clear Krakauer lied and exaggerated to make himself some kind of protagonist, and UNFAIRLY as hell portrayed others as villains when they were much more brave and heroic than he. He ruined Sandy and Bourkeev’s reputations for decades. It’s only now people are really talking about it, and how much “Into Thin Air” is to blame. Also, I had no idea about Rob Hall paying Outside for the article/ads. The last few sentences of this video made everything make sooo much sense.

    • @waltblackadar4690
      @waltblackadar4690 10 дней назад

      Bunch o' crap. JK never portrays himself as a protagonist in his book or interviews. He even says that he was probably the least qualified guy to be there. As for SHP and Anatoli, I think Sandy gets a bit of a bum rap though there's no doubt Lopsang's short rope of her did contribute to delays. But I don't blame her for that but there's no doubt that special attention was paid to her so she could successfully reach the summit. Anatoli? Both hero and villain. Hero for rescuing people that night. Villain for taking off and leaving the clients to their own devices. With Scott out of the picture and Lopsang focused on SHP and tagging the summit (something Rob Hall basically fired him over in '95), Anatoli's decision to go down ahead of everyone leaving only the inexperienced Neal Beidleman as a guide for the clients was VERY questionable. Reinhold Messner and David Breashears both criticized that decision. Remember, it was Anatoli's unwillingness to follow directions that caused Scott Fischer to come down from Camp 2 to escort an ill climber off the mountain back to base camp and then back up again, contributing to Fischer's collapse and death 2 days later. Yes, Anatoli was a hero later on but it's quite likely that if he had acted the part for which he was getting paid (as a lead guide) that rescue may have never been needed.

  • @robbennett
    @robbennett 13 дней назад

    He inserts himself and his preconceived assumptions into all of his books. They shold be consistent historical fiction.

  • @Chellz801
    @Chellz801 13 дней назад

    Just found your channel and your common sense and logic is by far above the rest of the field who just take Krakauers book at face value without a single question. I always thought them lingering at the summit and the way it was brushed off like “well that happened” just didn’t pass the smell test at all. Also really loved your Sandy Pitman video where you layout all the ways ppl have hung so much blame on her shoulders due to ppl just not liking her and basically calling her accomplishments irrelevant. Thanks for the new info!

  • @MashaRistova
    @MashaRistova 13 дней назад

    I really love these longer videos you’ve been making. I watch every video you put out. I appreciate your logical approach to this subject, your thorough research, your citing of sources and facts - you build very strong cases that are hard to disagree with!

  • @prezescinas222
    @prezescinas222 14 дней назад

    Sorry but i'm sure Irvine and Mallory were the same height, maybe 1-1.5 inch difference, the difference in the photo is because Andrew is standing higher on the rocks so the surface is uneven.

    • @michaeltracy2356
      @michaeltracy2356 13 дней назад

      So, you knew them both? "I'm sure"... How are you sure? Mallory is mentioned as either 5'11 or 6 feet. Irvine's exact hight is not know, but Summer's says he was the second tallest on the expedition -- Norton being 6'4. So, probably more than a 1.5 inch difference.

  • @darsynia
    @darsynia 14 дней назад

    FWIW, during the interview when Jon says 'we' got the first radio call, I always took that as a kind of collective of the people who were farther down the mountain. I recall Ed Viesturs commenting on getting radio calls from the group trapped farther up from their lower camp, and he said something like 'we got a call' but he wasn't in the tent at the time. I'm with you on a lot of these arguments, but that one just sounds like a quirk of language. 'We' for Jon could have been anything from 'the group of us that weren't stuck up top,' 'the survivors,' or any number of things, IMO.

  • @Pixx4you
    @Pixx4you 15 дней назад

    😅😅

  • @possumj7307
    @possumj7307 16 дней назад

    Your distaste for Krakauer is palpable. In the fog of an Everest climb, memories of times and sequences are often confused. Get real bro.

    • @michaeltracy2356
      @michaeltracy2356 14 дней назад

      Ever hear of a camera? Krakauer can look at the photo just as well as you -- in fact, he did and he put it in his book with the commentary about it. Krakauer doesn't have any problem looking at photos and using those to state what happened when it fits his narrative. And when it doesn't people who have been taken in by him argue it is "faulty memory." “One of the saddest lessons of history is this: If we’ve been bamboozled long enough, we tend to reject any evidence of the bamboozle. We’re no longer interested in finding out the truth. The bamboozle has captured us. It’s simply too painful to acknowledge, even to ourselves, that we’ve been taken. Once you give a charlatan power over you, you almost never get it back.” ― Carl Sagan, The Demon-Haunted World: Science as a Candle in the Dark

  • @bwca4454
    @bwca4454 16 дней назад

    Michael, in my opinion your channel is THE most valid and informative source about mountaineering in the Everest region of the Himalaya. Kindly keep the positive momentum going! Take care, be well and continue to perform good deeds.

  • @corka279
    @corka279 16 дней назад

    How anyone can believe what a journalist says.. they are paid liars and also he was trying to sell a book Also we know how westerners or yanks blame Russia for anything they possibly can not the incompetence of Scott and Rob

  • @gregoryramos2728
    @gregoryramos2728 16 дней назад

    Does Ghost Above had been removed?

  • @bennobeck
    @bennobeck 16 дней назад

    Another question to this photo: My understanding was that Hall during his descent encountered Hansen and accompanied him on the last stretch to the summit. Why is he not to be seen on that picture?

    • @michaeltracy2356
      @michaeltracy2356 16 дней назад

      This is a little further down the mountain than where that took place and about 20-30 minutes earlier.

    • @bennobeck
      @bennobeck 16 дней назад

      @@michaeltracy2356 Thanks. So that means that Hansen and Hall really just met right below the summit, right? Because if Hansen is 40 minutes away from the summit on this photo and if he and Hall met 20-30 minutes later (as you stated) that can only mean that they encountered each other just a couple of meters away from the summit. At that point would it really have made a difference whether they turned around immediately? And is it likely from psychological point of view that somebody who is literally just a few steps away from the summit already far above the Hillary step, that such a person would turn around? I am just asking all that, because until now my understanind was that Hall and Hansen lost hours because of summiting together, but now knowing that there encounter was so close to the summit, it seems I have to change my perception. Probably Hansen was basically doomed already when this photo was taken, right? Hall maybe could have made it, if he had left him behind and not summited again.

    • @michaeltracy2356
      @michaeltracy2356 14 дней назад

      It looks like Hall descended just a little bit to assist Hansen as in this photo, he is about 1/4 the way there. Hansen would not be visible from the summit at this point, so probably Hall went down after Hansen. was visible -- which is just a short way before the summit. Tough to say when the impossibility of returning occurred. So much depends on the oxygen situation and Andy Harris. There was plenty of oxygen, but Harris was having problems. Had Harris been able to think clearly and operate, he could have used an extra bottle himself, turn it to 4 lpm and climb back up taking 2 bottles for Hall and Hansen. Would that be enough? Possibly. Or it could have beeb a waste. Without extra oxygen being brought up by Harris, Hansen not little to no possibility of returning at this point. Hall could drag him down the summit ridge, but very tough to lower someone down Hillary Step if they can't move.

    • @bennobeck
      @bennobeck 14 дней назад

      @@michaeltracy2356 Thanks Michael

  • @alfrede.neuman8898
    @alfrede.neuman8898 19 дней назад

    As a mail carrier I delivered a lot of Outside magazines. When Mallory was discovered that issue had a cover photo of his corpse propped up in a sitting position facing the photographer. It was very ghoulish. I assume Mallory’s family lodged a complaint against the magazine. That photo isn’t posted anywhere on the internet

  • @badseed1262
    @badseed1262 20 дней назад

    The Summit, seems like "the last step, but one" refers to the summit. Sounds like two dudes discussing the path and one person saying, "that's the last step," and the other person pointing at the summit saying, "But one." And it stuck. What else would it be? Nothing else make sense.

  • @DavidRudd-d5d
    @DavidRudd-d5d 20 дней назад

    After this review and reading similar things about other books written on the subject, I am wondering what is the best book to read on the M+I mystery?

  • @juan.i5o
    @juan.i5o 20 дней назад

    Two years have passed since this video was posted. Has anyone been to the museum since?

  • @flowermaze___
    @flowermaze___ 20 дней назад

    Very curious! Great work on piecing all this together. When can we expect the parts 2 and 3? Thanks!

  • @baze3SC
    @baze3SC 20 дней назад

    One contributing factor is that Beidleman used to be a motivational speaker. People attend such events to hear empowering stories about determination, teamwork and overcoming adversity. Hard facts are not the main concern. I find it plausible that Beidleman, having retold the account so many times, gradually "optimized" it for such audience. Maybe he even started to believe it because just like in Krakauer's case it's easier to tell a version of the story in which the protagonists don't have to make questionable or morally ambiguous decisions. It's hard to blame him though, he did what he thought was best at the time. Charlotte Fox published an article in 1997 called A Time To Live, A Time To Die where she says: "I took one last look at the tents-so close-and then kept moving with the others. We spent an interminable time descending carefully in the darkness and increasing wind, spreading out individually in our search for camp. The ground flattened out; we were walking among oxygen bottles, but still no tents. Neal had the presence of mind to gather the dispersing people before anyone was lost."

    • @michaeltracy2356
      @michaeltracy2356 20 дней назад

      More curious about what Beidleman says about Fox's account that she asked to descend earlier and Beidleman told her to stay on the summit. For all the times he has been "interviewed" and talked about this, there are two major questions that no one has seen fit to ask: (1) Did Charlotte Fox ask to descend earlier? and (2) How did you know which bottles to leave for Scott Fischer at South Summit?

  • @fiestababe1
    @fiestababe1 21 день назад

    Could Sandy Irvine's body have fallen off the north side due to avalanche's, I have seen on Google Earth Pro from where George Mallory's body was found and below that is a shear wall scree slope, I would say they were on the way down from the summit, Irvine lost his footing and fell first while they where tethered together, hence Mallory clawing with his hands and feet to try and stop himself falling. I would imagine that Irvine's body is further down and more to the left of the north side of Everest, not knowing if there was any strong winds during the descent, but only a future search of this area below 26.000ft could confirm this.

    • @michaeltracy2356
      @michaeltracy2356 20 дней назад

      I realize you are just trying to help, but you need to look at what is really going on. You are not the first person to think of this, and myself nor anyone else would spend the large amounts of money required to go look for Irvine if we could just look a the bottom of the glacier or lower down the mountain -- things that are easily done with a camera and/or drone. The main problem with "couldn't he be further down" is Yes, sure he could be further down, but he likely would have been seen at some point. People have been down there even in 1924 looking for the bodies. More than likely, Irvine is where people have reported seeing Irvine and have gone looking for Irvine and not reported what they found. The issue is that photos off the upper mountain during low snow periods are closely held secrets by people searching for Irvine. This is a good indication that Irvine is on the upper mountain.

  • @JonHop1
    @JonHop1 21 день назад

    2:37 how tall is that mountain in the rear of this photo? That looks almost comparable to Everest! Im assuming it is probably another famous mountain, but I am a complete noob to geography in this area, and mountaineering in general. Forgive my ignorance!

    • @Eimost
      @Eimost 10 дней назад

      That's Makalu, only 500m lower than Everest - 8485m

    • @JonHop1
      @JonHop1 10 дней назад

      @@Eimost do people climb that like Everest? What is the story on that peak?